Un grand merci to Vicki Archer, author of French Essence: Ambience, Beauty and Style in Provence for giving us a beautiful glimpse of Christmas in Provence!

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“The village looks like a fairyland. Around the circumference residents and holidaymakers are welcomed with streetlights that wish Joyeux Fêtes (Happy Holiday) or Joyeux Noël (Merry Christmas). Illuminated panels of Provencal country life stretch between the buildings and garlands of small lights dip and lift overhead. These brightly lit pathways lead to the town square, bordered on one side by the impressive Mairie, the heart and soul of local government and official village concerns. This square is cornered by large plane trees, cascading with tiny lights, and centred with a fountain. Above the plane trees strings of fairy lights form a canopy circus style. The square appears brilliant against the night sky as if dressed with diamonds. Suspended from the apex of the canopy are sparkling spheres of blue, white and red - a patriotic tribute floating in a starry firmament.  

The Christmas market is a French tradition and ours in Saint Rémy de Provence is held the weekend before Christmas. An organ grinder winds out ‘Jingle Bells’ and some children are clapping their hands and singing along to the tune. The words they sing have nothing to do with jingling bells and a horse drawn sleigh but rather they are singing an ode to the wind,

Vive le vent, vive le vent

Vive le vent d’hiver

Qui s’en va sifflant, soufflant

Dans les grands sapins verts,

Oh!

Vive le vent, vive le vent

Vive le temps d’hiver

Boule de neige et jour de l’an

Et bonne année grand-mere 

Translated they are singing,  

Live the wind, live the wind

Live the winter wind

Which goes whistling blowing

In the big green Christmas trees.

Oh

                                                                 Live the wind, live the wind

Live the winter weather

Snowball and New Year’s Day

And Happy New Year Grandmother 

Their little voices sound so sweet and the words are so apt in the chilling wind and freezing temperature of this December afternoon. A woman is roasting chestnuts in a pan over an open fire and the smell is irresistible. They are served piping hot in a twist of newspaper. There is something about the smell of roasting chestnuts and the quirky sound of organ music that feels so European and for me is still such a novelty.” 

Extract from French Essence, October 2009.
Photographs by Carla Coulson
www.carlacoulson.com